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TERRADA MAGAZINE

WINE2018.3.6

Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

Experiencing the essence of Gevrey-Chambertin

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Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py has amassed a cult-like following for making superb wines acclaimed as “flowers of Bourgogne,” such as Gevrey-Chambertin and Charmes-Chambertin wines. An historic domaine even among the greats of Bourgogne, it is tended by the 13th generation winemaker Loïc Dugat, who made his first visit to Japan in February. The domaine completed the transition of all of its vineyards to organic cultivation in 2003 and began observing cultivation through biodynamic agriculture around five years ago. These movements are also based on the Loïc philosophy. His family has practiced winemaking with nearly all-natural agricultural methods since the generation of his father Bernard, but now Loïc has taken them even further.

0306_02“Many people understand biodynamic as a new agricultural method,” says Loïc. “But I believe it is based on the ancient providence of nature. When I make my wines, I want to respect the grapes’ inherent vitality, and make as few intrusions as possible, with a complete observation of the process.” (translation from Japanese)

Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py wines are impressive for their concentrated feel and elegant fruit flavor. This can be attributed to the vieille vigne, the use of old vines with an average age of 70 years. These old vines produce fruit that combines a condensed feel with softness, and when Dugat purchases a new vineyard the old age is an absolute prerequisite. They also take excellent care of the land and use horse-plowing so as not to make the soil too firm.

Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py has a wide-ranging portfolio and has released whites in recent years including the excellent Meursault and Chassagne-Montrachet. But the essence of the domaine is best expressed by Gevrey-Chambertin. Its Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvee Coeur de Roy Tres Vieilles Vignes reveals subtleties within its rich body and has very fine tannins. The durable winemaking style never wavers, even if not blessed with an especially favorable vintage. The wines are also made for long-term keeping, giving you something else to enjoy.

Another fascinating aspect is how they thoroughly examine the personalities of the terroir. As an example, the special vineyard Mazoyères-Chambertin can bear the name of its adjoining Charmes-Chambertin, and this utilizes the unique personalities of the two Mazoyères-Chambertin vineyards it owns to boldly produce two brands. Even among the same Mazoyères-Chambertin, grapes from vineyards with a similar terroir to Charmes-Chambertin are blended with Charmes-Chambertin, while the grapes from a truly Mazoyères-Chambertin vineyard are made into their own individual wine. Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py is the pinnacle for any Bourgogne fan. The vibrant flavor leaves a lasting impression, and it’s all thanks to Loïc’s respect for nature.

(Text: Kimiko Anzai)

Contact: Luc Corporation  Tel 03-3586-7501

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